Easter on Symi
A day for a mix of photos and not a lot to say. Except… Easter is approaching, and I’ve had a couple of messages recently asking me what there is to do on Symi at Easter. Perhaps it’s because Easter weekend is fairly late this year (April 28th is Easter Sunday) that more people are thinking of taking a holiday here at that time, hence the questions. Usually, at Easter time, several cafes and restaurants that have been closed for the winter are reopened, so there should be no shortage of places to eat out. On which note, I’ve heard that what was Manos’ Aris restaurant is now to be opened (as something else, I assume) by Stavros, Pantelis is taking over the roof garden and… Well, it’s all gossip really, as I’ve not heard anything from the parties involved, but the point is, there are places open to dine.
The beach tavernas probably won’t be open, it might depend on the weather which, in April can be changeable. Check your boat connections with Dodekanisos Seaways and the Blue Star Line, and maybe nearer the time, ANES if they are running a service again this year. You will find or have found by now, hotels and apartments ready for occupation so accommodation shouldn’t be an issue – as long as you book ahead.
When you’re here, you will find that Great Week, the week leading up to Easter, brings a strict fast of Orthodox believers, though it doesn’t necessarily limit what the tavernas sell, and that there are church services just about every day. There are many church events, such as the Good Friday, dark and sad morning service, the parading of the biers, and the evening service where congregations move from church to church. There is the midnight service on Easter Saturday where the lights are turned out, and the flame is passed from one person to the next and, traditionally, folks write X A (for Xristos Anesti, Christ has risen) beneath the lintel of their gate or front door. This service is usually accompanied by fireworks and dynamite, so expect lots of noise. In fact, kids and adults alike are prone to setting off loud bangers at all and any time of the day and in any place. Expect sudden, loud noises.
Also expect sheep wandering the village lanes, let off the hillsides to be closer to homes and eat the weeds, fattening them up for the ‘silence of the lambs’ which happens on Saturday. At least, that’s when I’ve noticed it. After a few weeks of localised bleating and random sheep noises, you’re suddenly aware of the silence, broken now and then by a distant gunshot as another one bites the dust. I’ve seen neighbours gutting the carcases in their courtyards ahead of preparing the Saturday night fast-breaking ‘entrail’ soup, which I’ve never tried.
On Sunday, there is a family day atmosphere as there is on the Monday, and on the Sunday, there’s the traditional ‘burning of Judas’ (effigy) in the town square, with wine, music and more bangers. Monday is a bank holiday, so make sure you’ve got your shopping in – shops tend to be open on the Saturday at Easter, but probably not the Friday when, according to tradition, you’re not meant to use any tools or eat with cutlery.
Everyone is welcome at the church events no matter your denomination, lots of people throw fireworks about and there’s no point complaining about it or worrying, as it happens here, and that’s that. Around all this, the bars and cafés will be open (or at least some), ditto tavernas and shops. Taxi boats? No. Taxis? Yes but best to book. The tour buses to Panormitis? Yes, and the main town bus yes but not a Summer service, and I don’t expect any of the transport services will be operating on Easter Friday night, Sunday and possibly Monday. You have the walks, the spring on Symi is perfect for birdwatching, and the Pedi valley and other parts of the island offer butterflies and wildlife walks and views. Oh, and although the Noddy train is once again parked by the clock tower, I’m not sure if it will be running by Easter. So, not much to say today apart from: There’s a lot going on for Easter on Symi, you’re welcome to be a part of it, or watch/listen from a distance, but you have to be aware of a few things: Some shops/transport etc., close on certain days, the weather might disrupt your boat crossings, it might be cold at night, the weather changes and there’s lots of dynamite and bangers which would make an H&S officer pass out. If you’re happy with all of that, come on over.
Here’s a link where you can check out more and which will be more accurate than my memory. http://www.visitgreece.gr/en/religion/easter_in_greece
