So, last afternoon on Tilos, a few more thousand words down (4,000 and a few more to go after this), a walk taken to the end of the bay and back, lunch had, a free beer up on the roof had, packaging half done, bill to sort later and boat due tomorrow morning at 06.00. I shall set my alarm for 5.30 wake up, see where the boat is and amble down to the harbour which is all of, oh, 90 seconds away. Should be home around 08.00, or just after, depending on how the boat gets on coming down.
I came here to get some writing done away from hustle and bustle of Symi, and that’s exactly what I have done. My aim was to start on Sunday and write 6,000 words per day for five days, i.e. 30,000 words, about a third of a book the length of ‘the Judas Inheritance.’ I have actually managed just over 30,000 with a few more hopefully popping out as soon as I’ve written this. More importantly thought, I’ve gone through the middle section of the story, almost, and about three chapters away from the last act; the climax of the piece which should be about another 20 – 30k words or so.
This is all first draft stuff of course, but it’s better to have it down than have it in the head and I can do lots more work on it at a later date.
While being here I have also seen some of the island, though not as much if I were not working. I haven’t, for example, managed to get to the Megalo Xorio and the miniature elephants. But I have done some walking and have seen some sites, and sights. I’ve also been to a few tavernas and a list might be in order, for anyone else who is thinking of coming this way – and also as a bit of free publicity for the places themselves.
I stayed at Apollo Studios, where Andreas and Irina look after you in spectacular fashion; from free trips to collect spring water to towel art and a daily room clean. There are some shots from the roof terrace where I had me beer (a gift) while the room was being done this morning.
I’ve also eaten at Nicos Taverna, daily specials, great hostess Maria, good prices. At Eleni Taverna with the view over the sea, the Oasis when I fancied a change and some pasta and again, right by the sea, the kafeneion/Snak-bar ‘Michaelis’ which is open all day (8 – 23) and where you can have a full lunch or just a glass, and also at Armenon again on the seafront where we had dinner on Wednesday night. I’ve mainly used two bars in the main square and it’s very easy to fall into a rhythm there. Lunchtime beer and people-watch where, after your first day, your order arrives at the table around the same time as you do, and then at Merkouris’ bar in the evening, ditto, which stays open until the last people leave – and I was never the last people. Person.
There are plenty of other places to eat, drink and chill out of course, and had I been staying longer I may well have tried them all, were that possible. I would say that the prices are good, and I have never paid more than, say, €20.00 for a starter, main and jug of wine. In fact, it was more like €17.50, depending on what you have or course, and I tend not to have fish, which can be more expensive. But things like pork in red wine gravy with mashed potatoes (a highlight), and then today’s lunch which was simply an ouzo with water and a plate of gigantes and bread, for under €8.00, well, you can’t go wrong.
So, my little trip has been something of a success. I only need to make sure I don’t miss the boat in the morning, but there are worse places to get caught if I do, and plenty of places to stay. I do wonder how anyone keeps going when I see so many empty seats, but the season, I hope, hasn’t yet completely kicked in and things should, I hope again, pick up.
Any downsides? Well, only the internet connection which for the past few days has been racing along at a local rate of 0.3 Mbps and which sometimes does not work at all, but which has reached a top whack of 1.8 Mbps (home on Symi we get 4.00 Mbps).
But, more importantly, highlights of the trip? Writing a lot of first draft stuff on the new book. Learning that Kerry and Steve have rescued the sight of a stray cat which had a bad eye (piece of prickly grass seed stuck in there, got it out, eye now opening and already looking better), the pork and mash event, walking in the deserted village (though obviously not deserted once I was there), watching the daily fishing activity of boat in, unload, and sell. Listening to the return visitors around me in the square who come back to revisit their Greek friends and without whom, I suspect, the island wouldn’t be alive. And finally, the couple of sunrises I was disciplined enough to get up for. I will leave you with my fav shot of just such an event. Oh, and there should be a blog on Saturday, assuming I make it home and get my act into gear!
