Today we’re going on a walk, in photos, mainly. We set off at 9.30 on Sunday morning, reaching the end of Nimborio bay an hour later, after stopping to buy bread and chat to a couple of people. Our usual route, which we took, is up and over and then around and back. That’s up and over the hill via the road/path from the town square in Yialos, and down the donkey path at the other side, around the bays to Nimborio itself where we met our friend for brunch at her house.
The return journey was around the coast road which although feeling flatter, offers little shade so if you are going that way, always wear a hat and sun cream. A quick stop in Yialos and then a taxi to the village as Neil had to go to work and the stop in Yialos gave him time to dry off (very sweaty as it was about 32 degrees). The whole walk, according to my app, was four miles. Here are some more photos and there will be others in the days to come as this is only part of the walk.
This week I have been going to the harbour every day to check the post office. I am waiting for some papers from Rhodes which were posted on Friday. I’m not sure exactly which boat the post comes on, but they hadn’t arrived by Tuesday. We went down on Wednesday even though the post office was closed because we’re getting into the regime of at least walking up the Kali Strata each day. On days when we don’t, we’ll try walking up the hill from here instead. It’s Thursday as I write and later we’re doing another assault on the post and the steps. I’m also waiting for my new glasses to arrive and some other things, so it’s a good excuse to get me away from the desk.
Cruise ship
On Wednesday in Yialos, I counted at least five day-trip boats, the Dodecanese Express and also a cruise ship, so the harbour was fairly buzzing in the late morning. It may not look like it in all the photos as many people were in the shade and my phone camera didn’t pick them out. The Poseidon was busy and just setting off, the taxi boats had lots of passengers, and many of the cafes were nearly full. All hopeful and a good sign, as long as it keeps up and the day-trippers are not bringing their all-inclusive packed lunches with them.
Yianis and crew about to set off
And then the walk back up the ‘lazy steps’ which is not actually their name. The ‘lazy steps’ are further along the harbour where those who weren’t working or didn’t want to work, used to sit in the shade. Still, the slope ‘n’ steps is a good walk. Not as long as the Kali Strata walk up, but steeper with more steps being almost too high to manage. That’s a 1.5-litre bottle of water there which is just over one foot high so you can see (below) the height of some steps.
We’re off for another walk today, but before we set off, I wanted to show you a screenshot of what you will find when you go and check out the new Symi Dream Calendar 2019, which is now on sale here.
Okay, so let’s take a morning stroll to Nimborio. I expect most regular visitors to Symi have been here before, but in case you are new to the island, here’s how you get there. You have a few choices. You can take a taxi boat from Yialos and sail around the headland (northwards), or you can simply follow the harbour road around Yialos, past the boatyard at Harani, past Nos beach and up the hill, and keep going. You can also take the little train part of the way and get off where the children have started decorating the concrete seats (cute). Then, you simply walk downhill and around the first bay to Yala, where there is a cantina and a beach, or carry on and follow the signs for ‘Taverna’ and there you will eventually come to the end of the road. There are a lot more sunbeds than there used to be and still the waterfront taverna.
The road at the back of The town square – the well-being centre on your right
The way we walk is your other route (you can go completely the long way around, out of the village up over the hills to Roukouniotis and on, around the hills and come into Nimborio via the back way, but it’s a hike). We head to the harbour square and take the south side towards the back, following the road and up the steep but not too long hill to the church. There’s then a wonderfully rural path which, in places smells of farmyards, taking me back to my youth. Keep going to St George’s church and then down the old donkey path (restored) and onto the road, and you will come to Yala, and later to Nimborio itself. The walk from the village, via the Kali Strata and ‘over the top’, as we call it, took us less than an hour and we stopped for photos en route. The walk back around the main road – very little shade, wear a hat – took us 45 minutes from Nimborio to Yialos.
A country walk is included
I’ll post some more of Neil’s photos from last Sunday over the next few days, but here is a reminder. I’m away Friday (8th) night and not back until hideously early on Wednesday morning. My boat gets back at 5.30, and I’ve a long climb up the hill with my rucksack, so may not get to a blog post after this Saturday until the following Friday or Saturday. Btw, if anyone is meeting the boat next Wednesday the 13th, at 5.30 in the morning and can offer a lift up to the village… wink, wink. Otherwise, I’ll take it slowly and get there in the end.
NimborioTowards Nimborio from the top of the donkey pathChampagne brunch on a private jetty – can;t beat it.
I’m in Rhodes today for a couple of appointments. I know that sometimes, on your way to Symi, you find yourself with time in Rhodes, waiting for the afternoon boat. I thought I’d suggest a few things to do, a couple of tips, or at least, what I do when I’m hanging around for a day. Let’s imagine that you land at the airport in the morning but too late for the early boat, and there’s a Blue Star crossing later that day (Wednesday/Friday). What do you do?
Blue Star coming into Rhodes
It depends on how much time you actually have, of course, but one tip we often suggest to people is to head to the Plaza Hotel. You can do that from the airport by taxi or bus. This hotel will let you leave your luggage while you go wandering, or you can sit by the pool, use the pool even, have lunch or chill in the bar with their free wifi and friendly staff. It’s not far from the shops and other New Town attractions either, so, dump your luggage and take a walk.
Mandraki in winter
There are plenty of places for lunch nearby. We recently discovered the Lebanese restaurant (out of the Plaza, turn left, cross the road, down the shopping precinct, turn left before the trendy clothes shop opposite what was the China Kitchen) and it’s down there. There are also to barbers down there should you need a haircut, and a cool jazz bar. If you continue along the precinct rather than turn left and then cross the road and head diagonally right, you will eventually come to the sea. It’s a pleasant walk around the headland and back to Mandraki if you turn right, and there’s also coastal path at the end of the beach on the left which takes you beneath the cliffs for a while.
The end of the precinct, turn left before you get here.
There’s the Old Town moat which is a very nice walk especially early in the season when it’s not too hot, and the flowers are out. That’s free, and there’s an entrance near the taxi rank at Mandraki. Then there’s the old Town itself with its collection of bars, cafes, tavernas and shops. Head into the back streets to see a more authentic old town, ruins, sites and eateries, but don’t get lost and miss your boat.
A walk in te moat
Another place to go to, depending on time, is the Nimos Taverna just inside Akandia gate. A taxi will drop you at the gate, which is actually a tunnel under the old wall. The restaurant is just at the end of it. This is run by two Symi guys and has the standard Greek fare but at fair prices and it’s off the main drag so not too noisy. Also, it’s only a short walk along the road to the Blue Star when it’s time to go. Leave enough time though, as the boat might be out at the end of the quay, so I’d leave at least 20 minutes from taverna to tailgate.
In the moat
Those are the kind of things I do when hanging around in Rhodes. I also go to the old fish market at Mandraki where there’s the Symi Café, run by the lovely Irini and her family; everyone welcome. There are public toilets there too (50c) which are well looked after, and in the gents (don’t know about the ladies) you can watch ‘fail’ videos where people fall off things and have skateboarding accidents. Don’t know why, but it’s wonderfully quirky.
I can’t list everything that’s available on one post of course, but knowing where to leave your luggage is probably the most important thing. If you’re with a holiday company like Olympic, that will be taken care of for you, but if you’re independent, then it could be a handy tip. Whatever you do, make sure you check the departure time of your boat, so you don’t miss it. If you do, then it’s a night in Rhodes, and that’s a whole new ball game for another post.
Yesterday we had sounds, today we’re having sights – or not, as it happens. These are only what I see, of course, but here’s a rough guide to what I tend to see first thing in the morning.
A quick morning check of the plants
I won’t take you through the details of absolutely first thing, but let’s assume I’m up, dressed and abluted and so on. Yesterday, for example, I dragged myself from bed knowing that I’d promised myself a bit of exercise so, having dressed in the kitchen so as not to disturb Snoring Beauty, I headed out just before the dawn. There’s a strange thing at our house; every time I leave the front gate, someone is passing on a motorbike, or on foot. Yesterday, though, was an exception and not even our landlord opposite was up and about.
The square was empty, as you might expect at 6.00 am, but as mentioned previously, Lefteris was at work preparing his kafeneion. The light was on, and he was inside. There was no-one else around, it’s not yet summer when I often pass people heading home from a night out, but there was no-one on the road either. No cars or soldiers passed me as I walked up the hill. The sky was pinking over Pedi way as I passed the sports centre, which also had some lights burning, and the only other person I saw was Tassos the donkey man’s mother and that wasn’t until I was in Leoni and beyond Lavinia, on the stretch towards Periotisa and Ag Triatha. I wondered if she was walking up to her son’s farm/area/compound on the main road towards Roukouniotis, but I didn’t ask. She was walking slower than me, and I didn’t want to break my tempo. We had a brief, passing chat about what I was up to, and she did volunteer that she was out for a walk as well.
Reaching the top of the village, the sun was just starting to peek above the Turkish mountains, throwing soft light onto the upper village and the Castro. I heard goats but didn’t see any (the sound of cockerels in the Pedi valley was manic), and again, passed no-one else. It was like everyone was still in bed, which is unusual. As there’s usually someone on the road at that time of day. Still, down again, past the museum and across to come out at Ag Athanasios, and then across the village to our side of the hill and… Still no-one around.
You must think the walk is very boring at that time old day, but you still get to see the wildlife waking up. Sparrows chatting about their dreams, a cat or two having a morning wash of all those intimate places, looking like they are playing the double bass, and I was surprised by two chickens and a cockerel halfway up the road. Other than that, Monday morning was very quiet. Later, sitting at the desk, I saw the ‘Spanos’ coming it as it does promptly at 9.20, and later the patrol tanker boat dropped anchor and rumbled into port. The sun, fully up, lit the harbour and the calm sea, and a few swallows came past to see what the sea air was driving up the hill, mosquitoes and bugs mainly.
Hm, not actually a lot going on, but then that’s what you want at six in the morning, isn’t it? I’m sure there will be other mornings when something happens, and this page becomes a little more interesting.
